You love your marker – that’s a given. As a result, you want to protect your investment as much as possible. The thought of anything damaging affecting your marker bag should be enough to send shivers down your spine (and possibly send a tear to your eye in the process). Thus, that’s why we are here today to introduce to you one of the best marker bags at Hustle Paintball, the Allen Company’s Padded Marker Bag. What’s so great about it? Read our review below to find out!
Does your gear bag matter?
Alright, if you’re still using a Brass Eagle Talon with a 35 round hopper and you’re getting outgunned by autocockers, a gear bag doesn’t need to be on your priority list.
If you already have invested in some decent gear and you want to protect it, it’s actually time to think about looking for the best paintball gear bag you can get.
Now, think about what you are going to need. The first requirement has to be space. Maybe the second is transportability—or lugging ease. After that, what do you think are the most important features of a gear bag.
Here’s what it is for me—the ability to handle harsh conditions and the “stench” of paintball.
The problem is that I am a lazy person. I get done playing and my gear sits in my trunk for days—usually until the night before I am going to play again. Everything goes in there. Soft goods like clothing, markers, mask, tubes, some paint. All of it.
When I get back from the field, my bag is usually filthy too.
This is where the Dye Resister comes in.
It’s called the “Resister” because it resists everything that you could ever throw at it.
Weather, gallons of paint, the stink of month-old moldy gear—you name it, the Dye Resister can handle it.
On top of that, it has some pretty sweet functionality.
Want to see it in action? Check out the video below…
Yeah—it’s a gear bag. Sure. But what makes it special? What makes the Dye Resister the best paintball gear bag money can buy?
Well, if you didn’t watch our review video yet, which you should, here is the run down.
First, it’s huge. You can fit every bit of paintball gear you own and more into it.
Next, Dye thought of everything.
In the front, there is a pocket for all of your “nasty” stuff—dirty, paint soaked jersey, cleats, anything that is gross that you don’t want coming into contact with clean stuff. On the other side of the bag is an insulated mask carrying compartment.
Why is the mask compartment insulated?
Originally, I thought that it was for beer…obviously.
Well, it turns out that leaving your mask sitting in a hot bag in the sun or the 120+ degree trunk of your car can actually cause thermal lens failure. At least that’s what Dye claims. You know what? I believe them. Why? They spend a lot of money on research and development.
The Dye Resister also has wheels, a cool handle like a real luggage bag, and rubber sealed zippers. It stands up on its end so it’s great for airport trips.
You know what?
You could get the Dye Resister and use it as a suitcase. It’s the perfect antidote for aggressive baggage handlers.
You really need to check out the video above. We put the Resister to the test by dumping about three gallons of paint on it and soaking it with a tsunami of water. It stood up to that test and it is going to stand up to anything you throw at it.
Do yourself a favor and buy one. A duffle bag isn’t enough. Here’s the link to the Dye Resister on our website.
Remember, you don’t need one unless you have some really sweet gear you have to protect. If you are still using that Brass Eagle from 1997, go get one of these and the Dye Resister.
Dye has finally done it!
If you have the Dye Assault Matrix you need to buy the Dye Box Rotor right now. Take a look at if on our website right now, or read this review, watch our review video and take a look later. It’s a little pricy at around $400—but you’ve already purchased the DAM and you really need this kind of capacity.
It’s a mag fed gamechanger.
Want to skip to the video review? Check it out below.
You get a 325 round capacity and a bulky looking addition that screams M249. It looks cool and you might think that it would get in the way. It is huge—almost twice the size of a regular rotor.
In reality, once it is on the DAM, you really don’t notice the Dye Box Rotor’s size. It isn’t particularly heavy or cumbersome. We definitely thought it might be.
One of the huge advantages—beyond the 325 round capacity—is that the Box Rotor’s size does not add to your profile at all. Your shoulders aren’t going to extend past the box on either size and you don’t need to have a hopper to have a ton of paint accessible.
Without hopper bulk, the Box Rotor opens up possibilities for custom optics and attachments that you just can’t have with a hopper design. It will really bring a new approach to mag fed paintball.
Unless you get a Dye Assault Matrix that shipped very recently, there is a good chance that you need a new RF chip to make the Box Rotor work. That’s why Dye is shipping it with a new board for your DAM.
If you can’t figure out board issues for any reason or if you order a Box Rotor and it doesn’t have a new board for your DAM, you can give DYE a call and they will help you out. Eventually, these will ship without new boards.
There is also an upgraded bolt system that comes with the Dye Box Rotor. It adds functionality with first strike rounds. You can use the outside cam of an ironman bolt if you already upgraded, as the functionality is only added by a tip redesign that flares the tip out.
Instead of AA batteries, the Box Rotor uses a 1600mAh lithium battery and charger. You’ll have to make sure to keep it charged with the included wall brick and USB-style charger.
Is It Worth It?
The Box Rotor is completely worth it if you have a DAM or if you plan to get one.
There are several small features that really impress. A spring articulated loading system, for instance, helps improve tactical reloads by closing the Box Rotor off when it is removed from the marker. This presents paint spillage.
The Box Rotor is easily serviceable and disassembled. The internals are almost identical to the standard rotor and fairly straight forward. If you want a complete look at the inside, check out our video on YouTube.
Yes. You A Dye Box Rotor
If you already have a DAM, your gear budget is about to be blown.
Head over to our website and check out the Dye Box Rotor.
If you need more capacity and still want to maintain a tactical low profile that is compatible with milspec optics and style, this is your ticket.
If you need to think more about it or just want to see the specs, check out the manual below…
The Empire Paintball D*Fender looks more like a work of abstract art than a paintball marker. With futuristic style cues and tons of customization options, the D*Fender appears to be designed for a certain demographic of player that is deeply concerned about the way their marker looks and feels.
The best design inspiration I can think of are bullpup design military-style guns recently made popular by certain video franchise video games released by EA and YouTube superstars. Anyway, it looks like the D*Fender is designed with a certain type of video game ascetic in mind. It just looks “different” and that’s alright.
It might be a cool paintball gun to use for milsim paintball, provided that no one minds the internal Z2 loading that can hold a heck of a lot more paint than a magazine fed marker.
The styling and internal loader are two of the most unique features of the Empire D*Fender. The completely integrated loader is actually helpful—it doesn’t just get you some style points on the field. The bullpup and integrated hopper design help reduce your profile and increase visibility above the marker.
The shell of the D*Fender is magnesium, a high-strength lightweight structure that definitely explains the high price. Overall, the body is sleek and functional. It’s not difficult to reach the marker’s internals, but you aren’t going to want to do it in action.
If you want to see more details on the specifics of the Empire BT D*Fender, check it out on our website here. The price is around $1,300. It’s expensive. Part of what you are paying for is the cool FAMAS-inspired bullpup style. The other part is that it’s made with quality components.
D*Fender Selector Switch Problems
One of the things we’ve noticed with the D*Fender are quality control issues. Specifically, some people are receiving markers with a selector switch that wobbles or does not select all fire modes properly.
The culprit is a bent pin behind the selector switch. It’s not a difficult fix, and you can definitely do it yourself if you already have a D*Fender with selector switch problems.
First, you should take a look behind the selector switch above the trigger guard.
Remove the silver metal pin behind the switch with a pair of needle nose pliers.
If you are having trouble with the switch, there is a good chance that it is bent. The switch should look like a U, with a flat base and two sides that are parallel to each other. A few D*Fender markers shipped from the factory with bent pins.
All you have to do is bend the pin back into a U-shape and put it back. After this quick fix, your D*Fender should be good to go.
Stay on the lookout for more updates, and be sure to subscribe on our YouTube channel. We’re going to have some video reviews up this week.
Think about your game. Discuss strategy with your teammates before you start. Even if you are just playing a walk-on game, the idea of a preplanned strategy can’t be overstated.
If you are a new player, here is a basic strategy run-down. Because of the complexity of speedball, you’re going to find hundreds of ways to approach a game. Don’t take this advice and these descriptions as the “end all” to paintball tactical decisions. If you are new, learn them and head to your local field armed to discuss appropriate strategy with other players.
For the purpose of learning, let’s assume you are playing 5v5 or 7v7.
A “Front” player’s goal is to grab the opponent’s flag. Fronts will run forward of the other players on your team who will be providing covering fire. The biggest mistake that beginner players make is starting everyone as a “front” player. Everyone gets on the field with the personal goal of getting the flag. It’s not going to work. Designate a front player to get the flag.
“Back” and “mid” players are the opposite. They stay in position, cover major traffic lanes at the beginning of the game, and spray a ton of paint toward opponents. You’ll need back players to initially lay down paint that will take out the other team’s rushing front players. Other than providing covering fire and spraying anyone that pops their head up or out, back players communicate and provide information on player positions to front players.
Back and mid players can fill in key bunkers that are lost when someone on your team is eliminated. As a back or mid player, your goal should be to secure lanes that your teammates can safely move up. Additionally, you’ll want to watch your flanks and remember to secure the snake side of the field.
Starting Box Decisions:
The first step is to decide who is going to be a front player and who will be playing back/mid. You’ll want to make sure that you have a clear idea which bunker everyone is traveling to, who will be running where, and where to expect people diving. Make sure players traveling the furthest distance from the box have the right of way.
Your first option is to just stay at the box and pour paint down lanes you expect your opponents to be. Spend a few seconds shooting before moving, and then move to your predetermined bunker. You should know who is playing in the back or middle for your team. If your team has decided that you will be playing the back or back-center, this should be your initial strategy.
You can also run to your bunker while shooting down range. It’s not as fast as sprinting and diving straight for a bunker, but it is a good way to provide covering fire that keeps your opponent’s heads down and sightlines off while you and your teammates move into position. Start shooting right from the start and run into position.
If you’re going to play from the front, your best bet is to cross your fingers and run for it. Don’t hesitate, don’t shoot, just sprint and dive to your position.
After You Are In Position
It’s time to talk to your teammates. Determine how many players are left on the other team. Determine which bunkers are occupied by your team and the opposing team. Hopefully, you’ve walked the field before the game and you understand which bunkers are the most important to hold. If you’ve lost a teammate at an important bunker, you need to call up a rear player to hold that bunker.
After you’ve secured the bunkers you want, look at the lanes you have covered. If you have superiority over a specific lane as a back player, you’ll want to communicate that to fronts and move teammates down the field and toward the flag. Constant communication is the key. Remember, if you aren’t shooting or moving you are talking and sometimes you need to move, shoot and talk at the same time.
Basic Mid to Late Game
If you are in position well, this part gets easier. When you have a numbers advantage, play aggressively. If you don’t have an advantage, stay on the defense until things are evened up. If you have more players, you can look for weak bunkers and attempt bunker them. If you have fewer players, you’ll want to lock up all lanes and pin down movement. Just a few backs can effectively lock down opponents for some time.
Those are the basics.
There are 100 ways to end the game or to progress from the mid to late game stage. The basics always hold true. When a player goes down, you need to bring a back to replace that position. You need to designate players at the start of the match, determine where each person is heading and where the vital lanes are, decide on a starting strategy, and—once you are in position—communicate.
That’s it for now.
Yo, Tippmann fans! Have you been jonesing to shoot the legendary Tiberius First Strike rounds out of your Tippmann marker? If you have (and we know that you have), then keep reading, because we have one exciting product! Seriously – stop now and you’re going to miss out on one of the most awesome additions you can add to your Tippmann marker!
Don’t forget to take care of your equipment. Basic paintball gun maintenance can save you a lot of money in the long run. If you are like any of us at Hustle Paintball, your gun is your biggest budget item. If you’ve done all of your research, saved your money, and planned properly, you likely have a paintball gun that’s going to last—as long as you take care of it properly.
Here are some basic maintenance tips that beginners need to know. Go ahead and gloss over them if you’ve been playing for a while.
1. Clean, Clean, Clean
Before you do it, take the air source off. Sorry, I had to include that part—always remove your Co2 or HPA tank before cleaning your marker.
Cleaning is inevitable because dust, dirt and grime kill. It goes beyond just running a squeegee down the barrel and calling it a day.
Step up a cleaning routine. I just use a rag and some warm water to clean dirt, paint, and paint chips off my marker every time I use it. It’s part of my routine. When I get home, my gun comes out, gets disassembled, and every part gets cleaned with a damp cloth and dried with a dry towel. I squeegee the barrel again with a second Exalt Barrel Maid that I use only before I put my gun away (I keep two because I like to have one that is as clean as possible).
You don’t need to use chemical cleaners. You just need a damp cloth.
2. Check O-Rings
While you are cleaning, visually inspect your O-Rings. You’re looking for cuts, tears and abnormalities that look like air could slip past. Check the manual that came with your marker to determine where all of the o-rings are.
3. Lubricate—Less is Often More
You need to lubricate your marker. Don’t just use any grease or oil you find. I shudder to think about people using 3-in-1 oil or WD40 in $1000 paintball guns. It’s crazy. Specific paintball lubricants are inexpensive and can improve the life of your marker.
Again, manuals usually specify what type of grease or oil to use in your paintball gun. Read the thing. That’s why it’s there. Some people have specific preferences. When I use grease, I like Pathogen Super. It’s cheap and the little tub lasts forever. An inexpensive bottle of Planet Eclipse Oil is good for situations where grease isn’t called for.
Don’t over lubricate your paintball gun. Using too much lube will only hurt performance.
4. Be Careful
Don’t put your paintball gun underwater. Don’t get it covered in mud and dirt if you can avoid it. I seriously think about not playing in the worst conditions so I can avoid corrosion and additional cleaning problems. If I have to play in heavy rain, sometimes I cover my marker with a plastic bag. Even if I don’t play with the bag on, I still have it on me so I can keep the gun dry between rounds.
That’s it. It’s simple. Read your manual. Clean your marker every time you use it. Keep it out of the muck. Lubricate but don’t overdo it.
You have probably seen our review of the Morphfire (and if you haven’t, what are you waiting for turkey?). We had a ton of fun firing the Morphfire, so you may be wondering why we’re back plugging it all over again. Well, the team responsible for the Morphfire has finally made the Morphfire for markers with Autococker threads. Excited? You should be!
Sun’s out? Guns out. Winter is over and we are excited for better weather. This week on the Hustle Reload we have an arm wrestling competition and a rap battle. Between we assemble a Milsig M17 DMR that just arrived, take a look at some Custom CCM T2 pump markers and take out a FedEx delivery driver during an orange smoke grenade test. Here’s the video:
Custom CCM T2
Let’s start by talking about the custom CCM T2 pump marker. CCM makes the best pump paintball guns you can buy. Many people already know about the advantages of the CCM T2. To us, they are less like paintball guns and more like works of art. The T2 is smooth, the action is satisfying—there is really nothing else like it. If you don’t want one, you’re crazy.
Check out a couple customized CCM T2s in this week’s reload. Lust after them for a few seconds, and then think about how cool it would be to have your own custom T2. They take a while to come in, but you can get a T2 built exactly the way you want it. Virtually everything is customizable. Check out our T2 order page for more info.
The CCM customizer tool can help you figure out exactly how badass your T2 can look. You’ll probably want to call to order—because when you do you’ll get to pick everything.
M17 DMR Arrives
We also received the M17 DMR from Millsig. Finally. We aren’t sure if it is completely ridiculous or cool—likely it is a match between the two. If you want a well-built sniping machine that is completely outrageous the M17 is for you. Your likely going to do plenty of your own research before buying it—but here is one thing that Milsig didn’t tell us that you should know before you order: You’ll have to pick up a ladder to attach the 400mm barrel. We haven’t seen a Little Giant ladder infomercial in a while but it seems like the best choice—a nice compact design that will fit right in with your sniper kit.
John Dresser of PbNation
You should check out our exclusive interview with John Dresser where we asked all of the tough questions the community at PbNation have been waiting to hear. We discovered that he prefers hand dryers, can’t remember Home Alone 3, and that PbNation is really a peanut butter forum. Check out the interview:
I remember one afternoon after finishing a day of paintball, a friend and I began sword fighting with our squeegees after cleaning our barrels. The fight consisted of the usual moves: sword fighting from behind, the ‘spin attack into throat’ move, the ‘belly stab,’ and of course the ‘stab to crotch,’ move. For some reason, I thought it would be a good idea to spin around and grab my squeegee with both hands and attack my friend like I was King Arthur using the legendary sword Excalibur. I hit him in the back so hard, the squeegee broke in half.